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May 8: The unemployment rate rockets up to 13 per cent, the second-highest figure on record in Canada. May Some Quebec schools reopen and Ontario stores start offering curbside pickup. May Many stores, child-care centres and hair salons open in Alberta. May Thousands pack a park on a sunny day in Toronto, creating fears of a new outbreak.

May A new report from the military helping battle COVID in five long-term care facilities in Ontario reveals extreme neglect and exposes the extent of the horrific conditions facing residents. May At least 41 staff and students test positive for COVID in the first two weeks after elementary schools outside the Montreal area reopen. June The Nova Scotia government announces all bars and restaurants can operate at full capacity after more than two weeks without a single new case of COVID July 3: P.

July Trudeau says the federal, provincial and territorial governments reached a deal on billions of dollars in transfers to continue reopening economies amid the COVID pandemic. July Quebec becomes the first province in Canada to require mask-wearing in all indoor public places. Top public health official Dr. Michael Patterson says both miners were exposed in their home jurisdictions.

In Ontario, Ford says bars and restaurants will have to stop serving booze at 11 p. For Canadians left jobless or underemployed because of the pandemic, the legislation supplants the CERB support program with a more flexible and generous employment insurance regime.

Bars, cinemas and restaurant dining rooms are ordered closed for at least 28 days in Montreal, Quebec City and Chaudiere-Appalaches.

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Nova Scotia and New Brunswick tighten their boundaries, requiring people entering the provinces to quarantine for 14 days. Among the added measures is a requirement for people to wear a mask inside businesses and restrictions on the size of gatherings.

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The newer Millennium Line alights near shopping malls and suburban residential districts in Coquitlam and Burnaby. Trains depart every two to eight minutes between 5am and am Monday to Friday 6am to am Saturday, 7am to pm Sun.

All SkyTrain services are wheelchair accessible. Services depart from Waterfront Station between am and am Monday to Saturday am to pm Sunday.

Vessels are wheelchair accessible and bike-friendly. For green travelers, Yellow Cab has a large fleet of low-emission vehicles. A drive or transit trek over the soaring Lions Gate Bridge will deliver you to the forest-fringed doorstep of North Vancouver and West Vancouver, complete with their outdoors attractions and waterfront views, while a short-hop ferry from Horseshoe Bay takes you over to Bowen Island for a rustic day excursion.

For information on what to do here, check out the municipal website www. The grounds also include rainforest walks, totem poles and a swinging network of smaller cable bridges strung between the trees. In summer, Skyride gondola passengers can access mountain restaurants, lumberjack shows, alpine hiking trails and a grizzly-bear refuge.

You can also harden your calf muscles on the Grouse Grind, a steep 2. There are also plenty of excellent hiking trails and some great picnic spots.

Like Grouse, the area transforms in winter, when Mt Seymour Resorts ; www. It has a playground, outdoor pool and free continental breakfast. Lonsdale Quay Hotel Map; ; www. Interiors will be familiar to the business-traveler crowd but there are also two colorful family rooms with bunk beds and bath toys. There are plenty of shops and restaurants nearby to keep you occupied. Quality pub food in a ski-lodge setting. From the bus terminal at the quay, bus runs to Capilano Suspension Bridge then up to the base of Grouse Mountain.

Rocky Mountaineer Vacations runs its popular Whistler Mountaineer , ; www. You can check out all the local information and parochial intrigue at the city council www. About 13km of hiking trails crisscross the area, including a recommended trek that leads to Point Atkinson Lighthouse and some shimmering views across lovely Burrard Inlet.

Each suite has a fridge and DVD player, as well as a decanter of sherry for that essential al fresco evening tipple. You can sober up with a stroll to nearby Point Atkinson Lighthouse. Proving just how authentic the food is, there are usually a few expat Iranians here, tucking into large platters of Barbary bread with eggplant dip and long-simmered stews. The recommended fish, chicken and beef kabobs dominate the menu. You can also catch a minute ferry ride to Bowen Island from here. For Horseshoe Bay information, check www.

Bowen Island has its own Visitor Centre ; www. West of Horseshoe Bay, Whytecliff Park off Map; ; block Marine Dr attracts scuba divers to its protected waters, hikers to its rocky trails and rock climbers to its granite cliffs.

Hiking trails and picnic grounds similarly abound on Bowen. Scenic kayaking tours are offered by Bowen Island Sea Kayaking , ; www. Carrying 22 million passengers a year, the BC Ferries system has a few unusual stories to tell.

There have been 21 on-board births, several weddings and a missing dog that disappeared from a boat in , only to arrive bedraggled on Bowen Island two days later, following an exhausting doggy paddle.

Pub grub is the main focus here and the fish and chips are recommended. BC Ferries , ; www. In addition, a handful of attractions aim to keep you away from the shops. For information, contact Tourism Burnaby ; www. Offering a peaceful environment minus the hectic energy of downtown, the pathways of Deer Lake Park Map crisscross the meadows and woodlands, circling the lake where fowl and other wildlife hang out.

The adjoining Burnaby Village Museum Map; ; www. To get there, take the Sperling Ave exit off Hwy 1 and follow the museum signs. An ever-expanding homage to materialism, Metropolis at Metrotown Map; ; www. The mall is a minute SkyTrain ride from downtown Vancouver. For information, drop into the Visitor Centre Map; , ; www. At the time of writing, the market was considering a new location: check its website for location updates before you set off.

Kuan Yin Temple Map; ; www. Rooms are tastefully lined with reproduction antiques and landscape paintings. The best feature is the chintzy guest lounge, which opens directly onto a large, secluded swimming pool. Fairmont Vancouver Airport Map; , ; www.

A great option for boarding your long-haul flight in trance-like state of calm. The rooms are elegantly furnished with high-end flourishes including remote-controlled drapes and marble-lined bathrooms. The giant, naturally occurring Buntzen Lake off Map; reservoir is surrounded on three sides by steep, tree-covered mountains and on its fourth side by a gently curving beach, complete with picnic tables, old-growth trees and those ambling, ever-present Canada geese.

Take the Ioco exit and follow Ioco Rd to the left. Turn right on First Ave and continue to Sunnyside Rd. Turn right again and continue to the Buntzen Lake entrance. The journey should take around an hour. It can get crowded here in summer, so arrive early if you want your pick of the picnic tables. Vegetarians are also well served on a menu that stretches to almost 50 dishes.

Drive here from Vancouver via the Steveston Hwy exit off Hwy 99 for an early-evening stroll along the boardwalk. Most of the machinery is still in place and you can learn all about what a horrible job it was working the production line here. Fort Langley is 45 minutes southeast of Vancouver via Hwy 1. Head to the slick new visitor center, named the Squamish Adventure Centre , ; www. The underground train tour May to October only into the mines is a highlight, especially for kids who like a fright.

West Coast Railway Heritage Park ; www. This volunteer-driven outdoor museum has around 90 railcars, including 10 working engines. A few minutes past Squamish, riverside Brackendale village is a fancy-free spot with a major claim to fame. The winter feeding ground for thousands of salmon-scoffing bald eagles, it draws legions of binocular-clad visitors, who flock around Thor Froslev, the eccentric owner of Brackendale Art Gallery ; www.

Activities Home of a sheer, m granite rock face that attracts climbers from across the region, Stawamus Chief Provincial Park www. Call Squamish Rock Guides ; www. Known for its high wind quotient, Squamish Spit is a popular kiteboarding and windsurfing destination. There are two shower buildings with flush toilets, and campers often indulge in activities like swimming, hiking and biking rentals available. Consider an interpretive ranger tour through the woods July and August only to find out a little more about the region.

Squamish Inn on the Water , ; www. These are among the best producers and their recommended beers : Dead Frog Brewery www. Granville Island Brewing www. Phillips Brewing www. Russell Brewing www. Storm Brewing www. Vancouver Island Brewery www.

The slightly more salubrious Perimeter Squamish Shuttle , ; www. Summer hikers seem magnetic- ally drawn here but the trails also double as cross-country ski routes in winter. The trailhead is 8. The Elfin Lakes trail 11km is a lovely and relatively easy day trek. For overnighters, the trail continues on to the extinct volcano of Opal Cone. The trailhead parking lot is 16km east of Hwy The bright aqua hue of the undisturbed lake contrasts with the dark, jagged peak of Black Tusk rising behind it.

A short stroll through the forest leads to a leg-jellying platform overlooking the top of the falls, where water drops suddenly out of the trees like a giant faucet. A 7km looped trail leads further through the dense forest and ancient lava beds to Cal-Cheak Suspension Bridge.

If you fancy staying, there are 15 drive-in campsites ; www. Co-hosting the Winter Olympics www. Once little more than an off-season afterthought, the area has seen summer visitor numbers leaping in recent years, with many people dropping by to try mountain biking, alpine hiking and a full roster of adventurous outdoor activities. Luckily, there are plenty of street signs and lots of people around to snag directions from.

Pick up The Pique or Whistler Question newspapers for further local insights. Armchair Books ; Village Sq; 9am-9pm Central bookstore with strong travel section.

Whistler Activity Centre , ; Whistler Way; 9am-5pm Recommendations and bookings for local activities. Whistler Visitor Centre , ; www. Whistler was originally called Alta Lake and Whistler Mountain was named London Mountain in the s by some evidently homesick British naval officers.

Whatever season you arrive, head to the visitor center or Whistler Activity Centre for tips and recommendations. There are dozens of lifts to transport skiers and snowboarders and a hotly anticipated 4. Snowshoers are also well served at Lost Lake: you can stomp off on your own on 10km of trails or rent equipment and guides.

Outdoor Adventures Whistler ; www. Prices include equipment rentals and the company also offers a wide range of non-snowshoe tours and activities. The cool, line course operated by Ziptrek Ecotours , ; www. Hiking With more than 40km of flower-and-forest alpine trails, most accessed via the Whistler Village Gondola, this region is ideal for those who like nature of the strollable variety. Favorite routes include the High Note Trail 8km , which traverses pristine meadows and has stunning views of the blue-green waters of Cheakumus Lake.

Pick up a route map from the visitor center for other trails. Whistler Alpine Guides Bureau ; www. Rafting Tumbling waterfalls, dense forest and a menagerie of local wildlife are some of the visuals you might catch as you lurch along the Elaho or Squamish rivers on an adrenalin-rushing half- or full-day rafting trip. Whistler River Adventures , ; www. Kokanee Crankworx www.

Cornucopia www. Whistler Film Festival www. The visitor center has a handy accommodation reservation service , ; www. Budget HI-Whistler Hostel ; whistler hihostels. Dorms are predictably institutional, but private rooms are also available. Book ahead year-round.

The on-site restaurant serves great breakfasts have the salmon eggs Benedict. Fireside Lodge ; www. Midrange Blackcomb Lodge , ; www. It offers lofts and studios with full kitchens, and a selection of cheaper but very comfortable standard rooms.

Alpine Lodge ; www. Crystal Lodge , ; www. Both share excellent proximity to village restaurants and are less than m from the main ski lift. Or you can just hop in the hot tub and dream about the large buffet breakfast coming your way in the morning. Edgewater Lodge , ; www. Pinnacle Hotel , ; www. Top end Adara Hotel , ; www. The front desk loans iPods. The region hits the international spotlight when it joins Vancouver to host the Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games in February and March Go to www.

Choose a room overlooking the slopes and you can watch from your balcony as the skiers slide home. Fairmont Chateau Whistler , ; www. The hallways, lobbies and rooms are adorned in rich hues and tastefully furnished with classic west coast elegance. Also recommended: Sundial Boutique Hotel , ; www. Suites have full kitchens, heated bathroom floors and rooftop hot-tub access. Legends , ; www. Fight your way to the counter and buy as many cookies and muffins as you can eat: smiling while stuffing your face has never been easier.

Try a glass of hot sake on a cold winter day. The loungey, sometimes raucous, bar will keep you occupied here until past midnight when you can stagger back to wherever your hotel might be. Save room for dessert: the cheese menu is small but perfectly formed and the Okanagan apple cheesecake will have you licking the glaze off your plate.

You can treat your hangover to a late breakfast the next day by coming in for a good-value fry-up. From its wrought-iron chandeliers to its stone hearth and giant picture windows, you can tell anyone who will listen here all about your daring escapades on the slopes.

They might even believe you. The food, including pasta, pizza and great fish and chips, is superior to standard bar fare. Thursday is the best night of the week, attracting locals with indie and funk tunes, but be prepared to line up for weekend entry when everyone within a 25km radius seems to be trying to get in.

MY Place ; www. Motor coach services from Perimeter Tours , ; www. Snowbus , ; www. Alternatively, you can grab a taxi from Resort Cabs ; www. Check the website of the Sunshine Coast Tourism Partnership www. The Sunshine Coast Transit System ; www. Malaspina Coach Lines ; ; www. This service is also handy for traveling up and down the highway between the Sunshine Coast communities. West of town, Roberts Creek Provincial Park ; www. Exactly what a great hostel should be, Up the Creek Backpackers , ; www.

Its large upstairs suite, complete with kitchenette, is popular with families but the lovely Renaissance Room is perfect for some romantic canoodling. Return to beginning of chapter SECHELT pop A useful base for active travelers, with plenty of hiking, biking, kayaking and diving opportunities in the area, Sechelt is the second-largest town on the Sunshine Coast.

For information, drop by the Visitor Centre , ; www. About as far from camping as you can get, each luxurious canvas-walled cabin has a heated rock floor, Jacuzzi tub and a private deck overlooking the bay.

Your first stop should be Pemberton Museum ; Prospect St; admission by donation; 10am-5pm Jun-Sep where you can wander around a village of rescued pioneer shacks and imagine the Gold Rush sweeping through. Next, don your Stetson and saddle up with Adventures on Horseback ; www. An even better way to see the area is from the air.

Head to the Pemberton Soaring Centre , ; www. Tell the pilot you like rollercoasters and see what happens next. Finally, roll back to your cozy bed at the Whistler-style Pemberton Valley Lodge , ; www. Hop aboard a steel-hulled water taxi operated by High Tide Tours ; www. West of downtown, Willingdon Beach City Park is an ideal spot for a waterfront picnic.

Or you can hit the water with a kayak from Powell River Sea Kayak , ; www. For a quirky sleepover, the Old Courthouse Inn , ; www. In keeping with the historic theme, the rooms are nicely decorated with antique furnishings. Nearby, the old Rodmay Heritage Hotel ; www.

For an introduction to the island, contact Tourism Vancouver Island , ; www. This was a surprise to anyone who actually came from Britain, since Victoria promulgated a dreamy version of England that never really was: every garden complete with the occasional palm tree was immaculate; every flag pole was adorned with a Union Jack; and every afternoon was spent quaffing tea from bone-china cups. Thankfully this tired theme-park version of Ye Olde England has been gradually superseded in recent years.

Fuelled by an increasingly younger demographic, a quiet revolution has seen lame tourist pubs, eateries and stores transformed into the kind of bright-painted bohemian shops, wood-floored coffee bars and surprisingly innovative restaurants that would make any city proud.

Visitor Centre Map; ; www. Parliament Buildings Map; ; www. The BC legislature welcomes history-hugging visitors. Consider stopping for lunch Click here. This tiny strip of businesses is fronted by an incongruously large Chinatown gate.

Consider a guided tour to learn all about days of opium dens and anti-Chinese sentiment. Check the online calendar of events if you want to rub shoulders with the locals at lectures, presentations and even singles nights aimed at lonely arts fans. The multiturreted Craigdarroch Castle Map; ; www.

The elegant, wood-lined stone mansion is dripping with period architecture and antique-packed rooms. Enter the park via Douglas St. Emily Carr House Map; ; www. When you get to Victoria Bug Zoo Map; ; www. This clutch of scrubbed colonial strongholds is now home to the Maritime Museum of British Columbia Map; ; www.

Some operators: Orca Spirit Adventures Map; , ; www. Some operators: Ocean River Sports Map; , ; www. Sports Rent Map; ; www. Cycle Treks Map; , ; www. Gray Line West Map; , ; www. Hidden Dragon Tours Map; , ; www. Victoria SkaFest www. Victoria Jazzfest International www. Moss Street Paint-In In mid-July artists demonstrate their skills at this popular one-day community event.

Symphony Splash www. Victoria Fringe Theatre Festival www. Victoria Cycling Festival www. A great place to meet fellow travelers. Daily guided excursions and tours include city, bike and history treks. HI Victoria Hostel Map; , ; victoria hihostels.

Free weekly city tours are offered. Geometric bedspreads and pastel paintwork color most interiors but the courtyard suites are much larger and suitable for small groups. Ocean Island Suites Map; , ; www. James Bay Inn Map; , ; www. There are some kitchenettes but the downstairs neighborhood bar also serves good pub grub. Add extra time for the painfully slow elevator to arrive. Queen Victoria Map; , ; www. The rooms here have abandoned the floral bedspreads in favor of a smart business hotel feel.

All have new bathrooms and fridges, some have kitchenettes and many overlook Beacon Hill Park from their little balconies. Shamrock Suites Map; , ; www. Call ahead for year-round room discounts. Rosewood Victoria Inn Map; , ; www. Bring your laptop to the library-like lounge for wireless access or hit the selection of board games. The Heritage House is a restored family home with antiques, fireplaces and private patios.

The larger Garden Suites have a contemporary feel and a smattering of Asian design flourishes. Gourmet continental breakfast is included. Swans Suite Hotel Map; , ; www. Most of the rooms are spacious loft suites where you climb upstairs to bed in a gabled nook, and each is decorated with a comfy combination of wood beams, rustic chic furniture and deep leather sofas.

Oswego Hotel Map; , ; www. Cleverly, the smaller studio rooms have space-saving high-end Murphy beds. Fairmont Empress Hotel Map; , ; www.

Check out the handmade candies on display near the entrance and pick up some marzipan teeth for the road. Hulking sandwiches of the melt-in-your-mouth pulled pork variety beef brisket and smoked chicken variations are also offered dominate the simple menu and you can wash that down with a pail of homemade ice tea.

Expect lunchtime queues better to arrive early or late and consider perking up your order with a side of succulent cornbread or a fried-banana-and-peanut-butter sandwich dessert. Signature sarnies feature roast beef or pastrami but the bulging vegetarian sandwich is also popular. Soups, wraps and sandwiches dominate the menu and there are plenty of vegetarian-friendly options. Heaping Belgian waffles are served with homemade cream cheese, and those who come for dinner can choose from a medley of international comfort foods, from calamari to pierogies.

Even meat-eaters have been known to swoon here, as they tuck into surprisingly tasty spring rolls, dim sum and potstickers. Combo meals are the best option, since they offer an array of different flavors.

Carnivores will be just as happy here, though, with hearty savory dishes like shitake-tofu potstickers and an array of dense fruit smoothies. Weekend brunch is popular and heavily patronized by hung-over students moaning quietly from the corners. The excellent beer selection includes Phillips and Lighthouse craft brews. Try the salmon-and-cream-cheese bagel melt at ReBar above. Save room for dessert: a frightening array of giant cheesecakes.

With a great wine menu, this spot invites adventurous foodies. Locally sourced produce is de rigueur, so the menu constantly changes to reflect seasonal highlights like figs, salmonberries and heirloom tomatoes.

We recommend the lamb shank, served with mustard-creamed root vegetables and braised chard. Unassuming from the outside, the ever-changing dishes might range from a hearty squash soup with butter-fried sage to a mouth-melting sablefish, served with rapini and poached eggs. Savvy diners drop by on Saturdays, when a creative five-course tasting menu hits the blackboard.

Extensive first-hand research was undertaken for these reviews. Summer drinkers often enjoy the lighter Honey Blonde Ale, while those with darker palates should make for the Nut Brown. Save room for dinner: the menu of seasonal, locally-sourced dishes is superior to most pubs and includes some excellent seafood.

Irish Times Map; ; Government St; 11am-1am Colonizing a former downtown bank building, this lively Celtic bar is a cut above standard Irish pubs. The interior is a pleasing fusion of high ceilings and dark wood finishes and the draft selection is a buffet of classics from Ireland, France and Belgium. Friday is also popular and there are also regular live acts. The Friday and Saturday night dance parties here are the main attraction.

The latter is also home of the Victoria Symphony ; www. Shopping While Government St is a magnet for souvenir shoppers, those looking for more worthwhile purchases should head to the Johnson St stretch between Store and Government.

Tops and skirts with insect prints are hot items, but there are also lots of cute handbags, socks and brooches to tempt your credit card. You can pick up all manner of tea paraphernalia here or sidle up to the tasting bar to quaff some adventurous brews. A minitheatre walks you through the process, a tasting bar serves those who like to quaff before buying and an impressive selection of vintages is offered for sale. Flavors range from peppermint to chocolate nut.

Government St Public Market ; Government St; Sun May-Sep An eclectic mix of vendors and performers transform this stretch at the block of Government St into a bustling pedestrianized street market on summer Sundays. Air Canada Jazz , ; www. Both airlines offer connections across Canada. Harbour Air Seaplanes , ; www. Similar West Coast Air , ; www.

Regular services also arrive from the Southern Gulf Islands. Victoria Clipper , ; www. Black Ball Transport ; www. Pick up a copy of the Peninsula Times for local stories and happenings or drop by the Saanich Peninsula Visitor Centre ; Patricia Bay Hwy; ampm Jun-Sep near Sidney for tips and insights on the area. Drop by the Visitor Centre ; www. The Marine Ecology Centre ; www. A floating barge in the marina on our visit, it was scheduled to move to swanky new premises in the Sidney Pier Hotel.

You can check out the sea critters for yourself at Sidney Spit. Accessed via a short ferry ride ; www. Dominating the waterfront, the new Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa , ; www. Victoria Regional Transit ; www. More than a century later, the cement operation is dust but the huge, elaborately manicured Butchart Gardens , ; www.

Summer is crowded with the usual tour bus hordes but daily afternoon and evening music performances and Saturday-night fireworks July and August make it all worthwhile.

Yuletide-loving December visitors are treated to thousands of fairy lights draped among the wintering plants. Perched atop Observatory Hill, this government facility houses the Plaskett Telescope in use since along with several hands-on exhibits and a miniplanetarium for the astronomically inclined.

Starry-eyed visitors can crash the Star Party on Friday or Saturday evenings May to October , when the astronomers chill out, show off their equipment and tackle thorny themes from asteroids to zero gravity. Hungry bald eagles are attracted to the fish and birdwatchers come ready with their cameras.

Drop by the Sooke Region Visitor Centre , ; www. This route goes a step further by getting cyclists off the highways and into some usually unseen backcountry. Getting on and off the trails is easy since bus lines along both routes are bike-rack equipped.

You can download free maps and guides for both these routes from the Capital Regional District ; www. With surf crashing against the bluffs and a dense canopy of Douglas fir trees, it offers short strolls to the beach as well as a tough 10km coastal trail. Sooke is also the end of the line for the popular Galloping Goose cycling trail see boxed text. Rent a bike from Sooke Cycle ; www. Paintings, sculptures and carved wood line its interiors.

Be aware that some sections are often muddy and difficult to hike and bear sightings are not uncommon. The most popular is the family-friendly China Beach Campground , ; www.

Booking is also required on the West Coast Trail Express , ; www. An ideal place to wind down after a long hike, its facilities include barbecues and hot tubs. Hikers are often found lolling around outside on the picnic tables here. Contact Tourism Cowichan , ; www. Visit the Visitor Centre , ; www. Must-scoffs here include giant vegetable pakoras and the kind of cinnamon-infused rice that addictions are made of.

The nearby South Shore Motel , ; www. After fuelling up, duck into the Maritime Centre ; www. Continue to the Caycus River Bridge and, just south of the bridge, turn right and follow Rosander Main for 29km to the park. Instead of submitting to a slow death, town officials commissioned a giant wall mural depicting local history. People took notice, 34 more murals and 13 sculptures were ordered, and a new tourism industry was born. Check the Visitor Centre ; www.

Favorite stops include Cherry Point Vineyards ; www. For more information on the wineries of this area and across Vancouver Island, check www. In the evening, the surprisingly large Chemainus Theatre , ; www.

Rooms are slick and comfortable and many include kitchens. Its old Edwardian banks and trading houses are now occupied by artsy shops and coffee bars. Drop by the Visitor Centre , ; www. Downhill from the town hub, Transfer Beach Park attracts swimmers and picnickers and has summertime live music in its large amphitheater. You can also hit the water here with the help of Sealegs Kayaking Adventures , ; www. With its own ferry service from the mainland, the city is a handy hub for exploring up-island.

Nicol St leads south to Hwy 1 and the Duke Point ferry terminal. Heading north, Terminal Ave forks: the right fork becomes Stewart Ave Hwy 1 , leading to the Departure Bay ferry terminal, while the left fork becomes Hwy 19A Island Hwy and is the main up-island route. Downtown Information Centre ; www. Bring a picnic and check out the birds hanging around the lagoon, take a short hike through the gnarly Garry oak forest or give the climbing wall your best shot.

Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park ; www. Walks or hikes range from 1km strolls to a 7. Access is via a minute ferry , ; www. Overlooking downtown, the colorful Nanaimo District Museum ; www. There are regular temporary exhibitions to keep the line-up fresh.

A swanky new museum building in the city center was scheduled to open soon after our visit. This landmark fortified tower only fired occasional cannons to simmer down regional ruckuses. Wild Play Element Parks , ; www. For scuba fans, the coastline off Nanaimo offers some great dives and the folk at Ocean Explorers Diving , ; www.

Sleeping Painted Turtle Guesthouse , ; www. Hardwood floors and IKEAesque furnishings abound while facilities range from a large and welcoming kitchen to a laundry room and en-suite showers. You can book a wide range of local activities through the front desk. Buccaneer Inn , ; www. The neat and tidy approach is carried over into the maritime-themed rooms, many with kitchenettes.

It has two lovely rooms, combining antique and contemporary chintzy flourishes. Dorchester Hotel , ; www. Inn on Long Lake , ; www. The large rooms, each with a balcony, have plenty of amenities and some have kitchenettes. It has a sauna, a fitness center and lake-bound canoes to keep you occupied, along with free continental breakfast. The food is the main attraction, though. Drop by on Saturday and Sunday for live lunchtime music.

The patio is a magnet on languid sunny days. The menu rests on the kind of wraps, burgers and sandwiches that are a cut above standard diner fare and there are some tempting small-plate options for those who want to snack or share. The locally sourced ingredients mean ever-changing specials but the favorite on our visit was Pacific halibut with Dungeness crab potato salad. In late July, the four days of marine-themed shenanigans include a street fair, a parade and a giant fireworks extravaganza, but the main event remains the big race where hundreds of salty sea dogs jump into customized bath-sized crafts and embark on a grueling 58km course.

Speedboat engines are de rigueur for the minute sprint, with thousands of spectators lining the bay for the spectacular finish. A dip in the tub will never seem the same again. The menu is also recommended and is a cut above standard pub grub. In contrast, the Port Theatre ; www.

Frequent West Coast Air , ; www. BUS Greyhound Canada ; www. Getting Around Downtown Nanaimo around the harbor is highly walkable, but after that the city spreads out and a car or strong bike legs are required. Be aware that taxis are expensive here. Nanaimo Regional Transit ; www. Bus 2 goes to the Departure Bay ferry terminal. No city buses run to Duke Point. For cabs, call AC Taxi Most visitors spend time pointing at the sky here in summer: a herd of goats lives on the roof of the main building.

World Parrot Refuge ; www. This excellent educational facility preaches the mantra that parrots are not pets. Pick up your earplugs at reception and stroll among the enclosures, each alive with recovering and very noisy birds. It has an excellent walk-through display on west coast animals and their habitats. Dedicated to treating sick or injured animals brought to its doors, the facility also has active rehabilitation programs for eagles and black bear.

Horne Lake Caves Provincial Park ; www. Even better are the three circular yurts, complete with baths, kitchens, double beds and flat-screen TVs.

The rest of the campground has showers, laundry and a playground. Free Spirit Spheres ; www. Like sleeping in a small boat cabin, the cozy, wood-lined interiors include cupboards, water coolers and the larger of the two Eryn has a microwave oven. Blue Willow Guest House ; www. The two rooms and one self-contained suite are lined with antiques and each is extremely homely. Tigh-Na-Mara Resort , ; www.

Lodge rooms, cottages and condos are available, each with a rustic-chic ambiance. Drop by for some fortifying pub grub and a couple of beers or head into the slightly more upscale restaurant where fish, steak and pasta dishes jostle for menu attention. A hearty weekend brunch is also available. The same buses, with similar times and rates, serve Qualicum Beach. The daily VIA Rail ; www. The same train, with similar times and rates, also serves Qualicum Beach.

But the double whammy of aboriginal and pioneer heritage plus easy access to some truly outstanding natural wilderness makes this an ideal spot for an off-the-beaten-path visit. For more information, check in with the Alberni Valley Visitor Centre ; www. Try hugging that.

A one-stop shop for active types, Batstar Adventure Tours , ; www. Choo Kwa Ventures , ; www. You can help paddle if you want or just sit back and listen to the ancient stories and songs from the local Hupacasath people.

The breakfasts are correspondingly wholesome and the two rooms have a charming, rustic feel. Hummingbird Guesthouse , ; hummingbirdguesthouse. Its funky orange-and-blue interior provides a casual atmosphere indoors, or you can head to the patio for a side dish of panoramic inlet views.

First-timers should drop by the Pacific Rim Visitor Centre ; www. Wide sandy beaches, untamed surf, lots of beachcombing nooks and a living museum of old-growth rainforest are the main reasons for the summer tourist clamor. Safety precautions apply on all trails in the region: tread carefully over slippery surfaces and never turn your back on the mischievous surf.

Long Beach Great scenery along the sandy shore easy. Rainforest Trail Two interpretive loops through old-growth forest 1km; moderate. Schooner Trail Through old and second-growth forests with beach access 1km; moderate.

Shorepine Bog Loops around a moss-layered bog m; easy and wheelchair-accessible. South Beach Through forest to a pebble beach m; easy to moderate. Spruce Fringe Trail Loop trail featuring hardy Sitka spruce 1. Wickaninnish Trail Shoreline and forest trail 2. Extremely popular in summer book ahead , its tent sites are located on a forested terrace, with trail access to the beach. Expect fairly basic facilities: the faucets are cold but the toilets are flush.

Compasses are required for navigating here, unless you fancy paddling to Hawaii. From there, popular paddle-to points include the recommended Gibraltar Island, a one-hour kayak away. It has a sheltered campground and many explorable beaches. Willis Island 90 minutes from Sechart is also popular. It has a campground and, at low tide, you can stroll to some of the nearby islands. Staff patrols the region to keep an eye on things and collect additional fees if you decide to stay longer.

Alternatively, Broken Island Adventures , ; www. Winding between the West Coast Trail information centers at Pachena Bay ; 9am-5pm May-Sep , near Bamfield on the north end, and Gordon River ; 9am-5pm May-Sep , near Port Renfrew to the south, most trekkers take between five and eight days to complete the full route.

Since the southern section is more difficult, many hikers prefer to ease themselves in from the northern end. The trail is only accessible from May to September and there is a limit of 26 overnight backpackers starting from each end each day. Hikers can camp at any of the designated sites along the route, most of which have solar-composting outhouses.

Overnight hikers who only tackle this end of the trail can leave from Nitinat Lake. Day hikers are allowed on the trail from each end, but need a free day-use permit, available from the registration centers. West Coast Trail Express , ; www. A short drive south of town, the Visitor Centre ; www.

Sights Check out what coastal temperate rainforests are all about by exploring the flora and fauna at the Tofino Botanical Gardens ; www. Admission and programs are free but donations are appreciated and you can also support the work here by buying a couple of their excellent trail guides.

Tranquility-minded trekkers travel here by Zodiac boat or seaplane, watching for whales and other sea critters en route. From the boat landing, 2km of boardwalks lead to a series of natural hot pools. Visible through the mist and accessible via kayak or tour boat from the Tofino waterfront, Meares Island is home to the Big Tree Trail, a m boardwalk through old-growth forest that includes a stunning year-old red cedar.

Situated on remote Flores Island and accessed by tour boat or kayak, Ahousat is the mystical location of the spectacular Wild Side Heritage Trail, a moderately difficult path that traverses 10km of forests, beaches and headlands between Ahousat and Cow Bay.

A popular destination for kayakers, camping of the no-facilities variety is allowed here. Pacific Surf School , ; www. The surf school Surf Sister , ; www. Remote Passages , ; www. Tofino Sea Kayaking Co , ; www.

Tours Adventures Pacific , ; www. Tla-ook Cultural Adventures , ; www. Tofino Air , ; www. Ocean Outfitters , ; www.

Sleeping Clayoquot Field Station ; www. A great sleepover for nature-lovers, it has a natural history library and regular speakers and events. Dolphin Motel ; www. A short walk from Chesterman Beach, it has a barbecue area with picnic tables and a couple of self-catering units with full kitchens.

Tofino Inlet Cottages , ; www. Gull Cottage ; www. Rates include breakfast, dinner and canoe use. Pacific Sands Beach Resort , ; www. Great for groups, these huge timber-framed houses open directly onto the beach and include kitchens, stone fireplaces, slate and wood floors and ocean-view bedrooms with private decks.

Built on pillars to preserve rainforest root systems, they also have energy-efficient heating systems. Wickaninnish Inn , ; www. Embodying nature with recycled old-growth furniture, natural stone tiles and the atmosphere of a place grown rather than constructed, the sumptuous guest rooms have push-button gas fireplaces, two-person hot tubs and private balconies.

Pampering has rarely felt better. Head upstairs to the swish new lounge for cocktails and great views across the inlet. Our menu favorite here is the shrimp and crab dumplings. Now affiliated with Greyhound Canada you can book via the www. The route runs daily year-round and twice daily from mid-March to mid-November.

In fact, the town has expanded in recent years to cope with visitor demand, successfully avoiding some of the growing-pain pitfalls experienced by Tofino. For information, head to the Visitor Centre ; www.

In contrast, the poke-worthy tide pools and kelp beds at Big Beach make it a great kid-friendly spot. If you want to stretch your sea legs, Subtidal Adventures , ; www. The highlight is the landscaped, lounge-worthy garden overlooking the inlet, complete with hammocks and a rope swing. With a full kitchen and its own deck and barbecue, it sleeps up to seven. Canadian Princess Resort , ; www. Drop by in the afternoon for coffee and sprinkle-topped cakes.

Denman has three provincial parks: Fillongley ; www. Ships Point Inn , ; www. The four-course breakfast, sometimes with oysters, will have you leaping from your bed. Sea Breeze Lodge , ; www. You can swim, kayak and fish here or just flop lazily into the cliff-side hot tub. The rates, reduced for unders, include three daily meals. Nosh on some pizza for lunch or just drop in to talk to a resident Denman artist over a java and a muffin. Summer evenings feature a barbecue buffet specializing in fresh local fare, while the main menu focuses on hearty soups, sandwiches and burgers.

A good base for outdoor adventures across the region, its highlight is the Mt Washington resort. Drop by the area Visitor Centre , ; www. The main reason for most visits, Mt Washington Alpine Resort , ; www.

But there are also some great summer activities here, including horseback riding, fly-fishing, alpine hiking and mountain biking. In addition, outdoors types should consider Miracle Beach Provincial Park ; www. It has two basement suites, each with their own entrance, and the chatty host will regale you with some colorful local stories.

The fish tacos are ace and the locals often keep this place packed at meal times. The Visitor Centre , ; www. Much easier than catching your own lunch, you can also buy fish and chips here. Rates include continental breakfast and the three-room suites and cabins are recommended for small groups. The loft rooms are massive and comfortably sleep up to four. Dolphins Resort , ; www.

The cabins have a cozy, rustic feel and each has a full kitchen with porch barbecue rentals available. Most also have outdoor hot tubs. Oysters, halibut burgers and fish and chips dot the menu, while intriguing historic photos of Campbell River dot the walls. Campbell River Transit ; www. Tsa-Kwa-Luten Lodge ; ; www. Whiskey Point Resort ; www. Heriot Bay Inn , ; www. The menu highlights are hearty soups, bean burgers and heaping salads. Both Quadra and Cortes are fairly large, so it can be challenging to get around without a car.

Luckily, many accommodations will pick you up from the ferry. The 9km Comox Glacier Trail is quite an adventure but is only recommended for advanced hikers. Around Buttle Lake, easier walks include Lady Falls m and the trail along Karst Creek 2km , which winds past sinkholes, percolating streams and tumbling waterfalls. You can get close to nature by pitching your tent at Buttle Lake Campground , ; www.

The swimming area and playground here make this a good choice for families. Begun 50 years ago as an outdoor education center, the highly recommended Strathcona Park Lodge ; www. In keeping with its low-impact proximity to nature, there are no telephones or TVs in the rooms, which range from college-style bedrooms to secluded timber-framed cottages.